Upper Ranch to Mongomery Woods
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The route as ridden

Well, that was one heck of an adventure. I “rode”, that is mostly pushed my way up the logging road along Dark Gulch, going the opposite direction to the route posted above, on Saturday, August 24th, keeping faith with the planning. The first couple miles are hard uphill slogging on an engineered timber road. In this country that means that there’s a cross swale, or “water bar”, often with 2′ to 3′ high embankments on the downhill side that cross the road at an angle every couple hundred feet to drain off storm flows and prevent erosion. Those and the generally steep grade make for some pretty vigorous cranking and also prohibit the passage of any vehicle without very high suspension. It also means that the road is generally in very good condition for logging access in the future. The entry gate was posted with a sign I hadn’t seen before, saying “No plantan sy mota aqui”; “Don’t plant your pot here, we will destroy it.” The sign was somewhat reassuring, together with the untraveled road surface. The very LAST thing I want is to come across illegal activity when I’m out in hell and gone.

While struggling up the mountain, and especially around the top where I found myself pushing through some very dense brush along a very degraded road bed, I found myself asking a question that’s occurred to me a number of times “what do you call what I’m doing here?”. One obvious answer is “slightly crazy” but that’s just not specific enough. I’ve been calling it “hybrid touring” for lack of a better name, but it came to me in a flash up there in the pucker brush, that whit I’m doing, the way I ride and sometimes get off and push, occasionally through waist high brambles and poison oak up 40 degree slopes, maybe a better name is “bike hiking”. As can be seen from the other posts on this site, I spend a considerable amount of time on actual paved roads, a lot of time on gravel and “sub-standard” surfaces, a lot of time on bare dirt, add some time shoving through the pucker brush. I guess that what lights my fire is having the ability to experience and pass efficiently through many different environments, using a single kit of equipment.

Sitting in a chair typing, these questions are less pointed that when you’re out there sweating like a horse, miles from the nearest human, checking out the bear scat and picking up osprey, owl and turkey feathers. But when you’re out there, questions arise. Maybe its all the oxygen and endorphins pulsing through the bloodstream, and the absence of the constant background hum of civilization, but many questions arise; “why am I here, in this place at this moment?”, “what am I doing?”, “why am I doing it?”, etc. These are the things that sometime occupy the mind of your wilderness cyclist. Hey!, an even better name “Wilderness Cycling”. No doubt there are others out there doing this as well, but its definitely the few.

But back to the story. At the high point, marked on the map above by several map pins called “PUnk” for “Path Unknown” I found, as I mention above that the two roads visible on Google Earth are, in fact, connected by a very degraded, as in covered in dead-fall and quite overgrown, old roadbed. I had guessed that there would be at least a game trail and hoped for an actual roadbed, but the trees are too thick there for one to show in the satellite imagery. I mapped a path through and lo and behold, the route I found matched my “Path Unknown” pretty well. So the Garmin Edge 705 proves its worth one more time, giving me the confidence and sufficient background information to go boldly, knowing just how far and in which direction to go before finding the next known point. I’ve been doing seat of the pants wayfinding in the back country my whole life and am capable of navigating “old school” but there is much to be said for not spending a lot of time calculating your position and resources without a firm knowledge of the terrain between you and your objective. You can go farther that you could, safely, otherwise, knowing just how far it is to water.

Route as ridden 8/22/09

Orr Springs to Leonard Lake through the back country
So there’s how I rode/mostly pushed it. Up at the northwestern-most hairpin turn, after passing along the Path Unknown, there is a promontory with a peak, like a smooth golden nipple, perched the swelling golden breast of the mountain, just begging to become an earth sheltered home with round windows looking all directions. To the west the hills roll away toward the coast in descending folds of velvet blue and green. To the east the land goes down steeply into the Greenough Roughs which is a land of enormous boulders and soaring basalt domes at the head of Dark Gulch. No “Road A” out here. These names have stories begging to be told, and the landscape is wild, stunning and visceral.

Beginning there at the high nob, the route heads downhill at a steepening grade for nearly 2 miles and, much to my dismay, the dirt surface is terribly degraded, especially at the lower elevations, by cattle. A small herd of beautiful, sleek, shiny black Angus has the run of the country out there and, judging by the adobe hard pockmarks in the road, they love nothing more than dancing in the mud during the rainy season. The result is worse than any cobblestone lane on the Tour de France, a bone shaking, rim battering ride that is really only doable on a fully sprung mountain bike, and probably not much fun even then. Nothing quite so frustrating as walking your bike down the hill because the surface is just too rough to ride. Not fun, but rally beautiful, this stretch of country should be made known to Hollywood location scouts, it would make a stunning film backdrop.

There is a lovely little spring-fed pond about a third of the way down, past the second switchback, that would have been most welcome to a thirsty traveler (note to self; next time bring 3 litters of water for this trip). Too bad that the pond is unfenced and every cow in the neighborhood has tromped, trampled, and relieved itself, turning the water bright green and soupy, rendering it unfit for man or most any other beast than a cow. Nasty! The same is true of the spring that rises from the base of a 500 foot high basalt monolith that plugs this end of Dark Gulch. This once limpid pool is now a bovine toilet and really a damned shame. It can’t be good for the native species either. The owners of the property are aware of the problem and have harvested some of the cows in response, but, in my humble opinion, it would be a real benefit to the environment (and to the road surface and thirsty traveler) to comprehensively eliminate this destructive (and tasty and grass fed and organic) pest. I would be happy to assist in any way appropriate. Ahem…..

The road surface improves gradually as you head east toward the Upper Ranch, rising from 940′ to 1900′ at the high point and leading through more spectacular rugged country to water and a long downhill with a navigable surface from the Upper Ranch and back down into Redwood Valley. My sincere thanks to the folks at Leonard Lake Reserve for permission to pass through and enjoy this fabulous landscape.

In the meantime, its 5:40 PM and I’m hitting the road in five minutes.

Planned Route

Clearlake Loop Navigation Route
Well, I spent 3 days riding the route and two weeks editing, geo-tagging and uploading the images, due to technical issues ranging from a nominal 42 Kbss dialup line which usually runs at about 10 Kbps to a balky computer which goes to a black screen about 10 times a day., to a messed up GPS file that I still have not fixed.
The ride was a lot of fun, with several unexpected adventures along the way, and as the photo placement shows in the vicinity of Mt. Konocti, the route I rode was not exactly the one I plotted above. The mountain was not accessible, so I rode along the lake. Clear Lake itself was, to say the least, not clear. I’m told the “Clear” part of the name originally was meant to apply to the air, not the water. And rightly so. The lake is generally quite shallow and “eutrophic”, meaning highly conducive to organic production. Boy howdy, it is certainly that, and as a result of our ongoing three year drought, water levels are very low. This time of year there is an enormous bloom of blue-green algae, made worse by nutrient runoff from agriculture and other human activities. This results in large masses of floating and decaying nasty green mats that, unfortunately for those down wind, give off lots of hydrogen sulfide and other noxious gasses and also coat the bottom with green-black sludge, altogether not conducive to swimming or even lounging along the shore in many places.
Although (not so) Clear Lake lies entirely within Lake County, the water rights are owned by the neighboring Colusa County, and the over 100 year history of conflict surrounding this is very colorful and still quite present in the minds of the residents.
For further reading on the history and limnology of Clear Lake California, check out these on-line resources;

Clear Lake – Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Clear Lake California

Clear Lake the largest freshwater lake in California. … of other opportunities to learn about the history of Clear Lake, including two county museums, …
www.californiaweekend.com/california-vacation/clear.html

Human Influences to Clear Lake, California A 20 Century History

Wathen Vineyards

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Wathen Vineyards, wine sign #1 heading east on 20

Route as Planned

Potter Valley to Willits back country cruising
I’ll post the route below as ridden. Here’s hoping for no locked gates.

July 24, ,09; Back to Redwood Valley, and more or less recovered. Total distance 59 mi., total ascent 7000′, ride time about 7 hrs. And one hulluva ride too I might add. 2 miles from the start point at Hopper’s Corners,there’s a nice warmup climb coming north out of Potter Valley, gaining 800′ in two miles. The road surface is quite good, with clean, if narrow shoulders, until you cross the Russian River. Taking a left on Eel River Road, the pavement narrows and surface conditions fade to quilted asphalt as you head north by northeast along the east bank of the main fork of the Eel River. 12 miles from the start point you cross the Eel at an elevation of 1400′ and then commence a three mile climb up loose dusty gravel to the summit at an elevation of 2850′. there are two stretches with slopes exceeding 40%. There are also a number of gates between the bridge and the eventual outlet at Hearst-Willits Rd. After talking at length with the folks at Hopper’s Corners in Potter Valley, as well as with all the people I met along the way, the consensus was to leave the gate the way you found it, pass through without leaving the road, and announce your presence as you move. So I did.

Road Narrows (again)

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Music to my eyes

I also caught up with full, dark night (or night caught up with me) just as I reached the summit, and the GPX file shown on the map above (the “Route as Planned”) was absolutely invaluable. The road at that point is no more than 12′ wide, completely overshadowed by trees and it was a moonless night. I was able to flawlessly navigate every twist and turn of steep, winding, rugged Forest Ridge Road as the USGS calls it.

As Ridden;

Potter Valley to Willits back country cursing
There are no photos from the summit on. It was dark, very dense forest and a narrow, dead-fall-littered surface so all my attention was focused on the navigation screen and staying on the “road” surface. The first three miles past the summit were pretty dicey and I would not even have attempted it without the Garmin GPS and my previous experience riding KML generated navigation tracks. In the event, with a well and carefully constructed route, it is possible to go places that would have been dangerous to impossible without the technology. Excellent!

Once I intersected with the Hears-Willits Road I was back on familiar ground, and it was just a matter of slogging the dark, gravelly, occasionally steep 10 miles or so into Willits, where beer awaited. The valley between Little Darby Peak and Tenny Peak after the water crossing on Tomki Creek is quite lovely in a Swiss-Alpine kind of way and is worthy of a photo expedition of its own. I’ll add those photos to this gallery soon, and I’ll be putting up a post discussing the pleasures and perils of night riding.

My next ride through this area will follow the “Ridgewood Highway” along the east bank of the Eel north to Hearst and back to Willits via the Hearst-Willits Rd. At that point I’ll get some photos of a portion of the route covered here, but I’m not planning on taking the Forest Ridge route again any time soon., loose dusty gravel at 40% is a pleasure for rare occasions.

Columbi Deli and Grocery, Ft. Bragg

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An excellent stop for carbs before tackling the long climb, this market seems unchanged since the 50's and is an institution in the neighborhood.

Sherwood Road

“Whether you are logging big trail miles or beating gas pump prices, the X-Alp Mid is your go to shoe. Built for the long haul, the R&R plate allows you to drop the hammer on the pedals but has enough flexibility and traction for when you have to get off and push up the big hills. Quick drying, highly breathable mesh/synthetic upper. Endo-skeletal fit system securely wraps feet.”

So sayeth the sellers. I sez;

“I’m just now shopping for a new shoe having completely ridden through my last pair of this PI Alp model. Due to my tendency to downhill with my left foot down and forward, holding most of my weight when standing off the saddle, after 18 months and 6-7k miles of on and off pavement touring, commuting, some single track and a good deal of hiking (mech. breakdown, too steep/loose, just walking around off the bike, etc) and nearly constant wear, the left shoe is pulling apart at the toe and along the outer mid-sole. The uppers are subject to wear and fraying from friction with the crank, and about 2\” of the left upper has pulled apart at the reinforcement around the laces.

That said, this is a well built, comfortable multi-function shoe with an excellent $/value ratio. I would highly recommend it to the dollar concious backwoods banzai artist who does not want to carry an extra pair of shoes whether on tour or just commuting.”

Apparently, great minds think alike. As always though with any heavily used and depended upon gear, durability versus cost versus available funds versus necessity is what the equation boils down to. Shoes? Ya gotta have ‘em. I paid $70 on clearance for mine and got about 6500 quality miles out of them. That’s about 0.9 cents per riding mile only, not including the daily wear for walking. The scientific method would now suggest that my next pair cost significantly more, to provide abasis for evaluating cost/performance on the cents per mile scale. Unfortunately for the scienbtific method, these match the orange and black color scheme of my ‘07 Trek Portland.

Main Ranch Road
Hoping to ride this today, more news tomorrow.

Les indigienes

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An old farm at the crossroads

The full loop
The trickiest part of using the uploaded GPX file for navigation was actually finding the point of beginning. A close look at the “Full Loop” map above will show two false starts at the beginning of the navigation portion of the course. These cost nearly an hour and a mile or two of confusion, but once on the course, the guidance was invaluable. The rider also needs to keep in mind the necessary approximations inherent in creating a navigation route by clicking on points in Google Earth.
It is often the case, especially with rural roads, that the map’s road line deviates significantly from the underlying satellite photo image. So you pick something in between the two. In addition, when charting a course over very winding roads, you pick the midpoints of a series of curves, rather than exhaustively following the road. These and other factors result in a track that is merely an approximation of the actual ground course. So when using a “hand made” track for navigation purposes it is inevitably the case that your ground truth will vary from the navigation file and it is these variations that can throw you off course without careful attention. At these points, you have to fall back on non-technical way-finding means, like checking the road surfaces for patterns of usage (which of these forks is the main road?) and the like.
In sum then, the GPS technology is great to have and could even be a lifesaver, but inevitably, traditional way-finding skills will come into play when the device provides ambiguous information, when you exceed the 15 hour battery life or when someone (not me surely) loses or breaks the device out in the back country (or down in the ‘hood). It would be unwise and unsafe to become overly dependent on a fragile piece of technology when your life could be at stake. On the other hand, as a means of communication, to document field conditions, it a real gem.
The ride itself was really top-notch, with over 3k vertical feet of ascent, most of it between the 8 and 13 mile points, all on loose dusty gravel at grades between 8% and 20%. I am not ashamed to say that at a couple points I got off and pushed. The combination of a narrow street tire up front and very worn cleats caused me to come out of the pedals on some very steep pitches, and there’s just no getting back on till you come to a flatter spot. Did I mention its flippin’ STEEP too?
But the back country is really beautiful, spotted with oak trees and offering lovely views into redwood clothed valleys. This is Greenfield Ranch country and the folks there are very protective of their privacy and the quality of the environment. I did not see even one piece of rubbish lying beside the road. I must say that I also saw only one Private Road, No Trespassing, sign along the course of Main Ranch Road (as opposed to those indicating adjoining properties) indicating that one could not pass along the road. The signs I did see along the road, as shown in the photos, indicate that the road is “Privately Maintained” and that one is entering at one’s own risk. From my point of view, its a much more entertaining and safer route to Orr Hot Springs than taking the paved roads, and shorter too.
The big HOWEVER is, however, that in conversation with a local resident along the road, and since, with a sometime visitor to the area, my trespass is very much unwelcome. You should know without being told that simply passing over the road is BAD, the transgression of taboo which, if I had better sense I’d not have transgressed in the first place. It’s also been said that my action in passing through will cause the erection of signs that actually SAY “Private Road”, or even electronic gates. I stand accursed, for riding the road that must not be ridden, mea culpa. NO ONE must ever do this again!!
And, since no one of the uninvited may ever go there again, please enjoy the geo-tagged gallery and know that which is forbidden, however distantly.

Ukiah valley tour

I come back via Road B, where the track (below) veers north after the turn around. Again the road is narrow but winding and lots of fun. Beware of stray livestock and the occasional “surface irregularity”, but enjoy the run. Once back to the bottom lands its back north on East Road to Redwood Valley and a quick stop for hydration and a game of pool at Vic’s Place.
And, to close the evening, the long flat loop up East Road where it joins Tomki and West Roads, then back through the vineyards to the office. Happy Birthday America!

Black Bart Loop

Ok, July 20th and I made it over the top on Black Bart Trail and down into Potter Valley, with camera in tow. Got some pretty good photos including three of a California Green Rattlesnake. The folks of Potter Valley were warm and hospitable and more than happy to pose for the camera.

Totals: Distance; 36.61 mi., Ride time; 3:36:53, Ascent; 2360′

Rd. A – Black Bart-Potter Valley

The gallery below displays the geo-tagged images shown on the map above.

Start of the climb

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Base of Rd. A, grade varies from 5% - 14%, surface is adequate, shoulders are non-existent, traffic is fairly light.

Approaching from the south you ride through the rolling vineyards of Redwood Valley over a series of gradually rising steps heading north on either East or West Road, take your pick because both meet ath a three-way intersection with Tomki Road, at the north end of the Valley. About four miles in from the intersection, things begin to get interesting as the road starts to climb at about 12% for two and a half miles, rising almost a thousand feet from that point to the crest at 1935′. Along the way you’ll pass one buddist and one greek orthodox monastery as the narrow but reasonably clean asphalt rises in a series of about ten tight, winding ’s’ curves through thick forests of california oak, white fir and even the occaisonal redwood, all second and third growth.

Oh yes, and don’t forget the poison oak, its thick as lobbyists on congress. I’m a big advocate of Hawaiian philosophy as applied to cycling; eat when hungry, rest when tired, ride when ready, drink whenevah. But when resting along the road in northern California, beware, unpleasant surprises can lurk in the grass. Poison oak is chifest among these, but the very prickly and uncomfortable Goat’s Head is a thing to be reckoned with as well. To barrel through the copuntryside as if the devil is on your heels, without stopping to take in the scenery seems a waste to me, so, by all means,  stop to take it in, but choose your perch carefully in these parts.

Feast your eyes upon the details, recorded July 3rd on a cooling late afternoon.

Tomki Road

Reeves Canyon Road to Leonard Lake and the Upper Ranch . Click on the link to download the GPX source file for your own navigation device.

Six miles from the highway you’ll come across a locked gate with a sign reading “End of Public Road, Private Property, Violators will be Prosecuted”. They mean it. The four miles from the gate to Leonard Lake is owned by the adjacent landowners and is operated as a series of private reserves, mostly for family vacations and special events. The facilities are very much 1930’s rustic, with small cabins, very lightly improved campgrounds nestled beside the clear cool waters of Reeves Canyon stream, and enveloped by old growth native forest.
The headwaters of the stream at Leonard Lake is the heart of the former Crowsfoot Logging family reserve, and uniquely in the Redwood Valley, has never been logged. To the west, the 4000 acre parcel backs up against Montgomery Woods State Park. Between the two, this area represents a significant remainder of our original ecosystem. Though somewhat altered by ranching, farming and habitation over the past century and a half, you will still find magnificent groves of Coastal Redwood and White Fire that have never suffered the saw or the axe.
Exclusively through Emerald Empire Adventures, the public may now gain access for cycling, hiking or equestrian adventures. Strictly by appointment, we will guide you and your party through one of the few remaining places in the Emerald Empire where you can pass lightly through a vision from a vanishing world, as if it were your own private paradise.
Having passed through to Orr Hot Springs, the natural thing to do is to relax those tired muscles in the 103 degree waters before riding up the final 100′ climb to spend the night under the stars at Mann Ranch, where the 360 degree dark sky horizon is truly stunning by naked eye, binoculars of telescope (which can be arranged as well).
In the morning there’s a 9 mile 6%-12% downhill back into the valley for breakfast at Club Calpella or Angel’s in Redwood Valley and then on to the finish at Base Camp on Laughlin Rd. There’s a 60 mile, three day weekend to remember.
So check back soon for more GPS tracks on the back side, Orr Springs and Mann Ranch segments.