This is a private road owned by the Mendocino Redwood Logging Company but its easily accessible by bicycle via one of the three open gates in the cyclone fence along the south side of Orr Springs Road just west of Hwy. 101. Masonite Road originates at the old Masonite mill site, the development of which is the focus of much current sturm und drang currently roiling local politics and the upcoming ballot measure “A”, meant to circumvent local planning authority and create a zoning change there, written by the developer, is being hotly debated in bars, on the air and on street corners all around Mendocino County. The road itself however, is wide, mostly smooth asphalt, and virtually un-trafficked. It climbs, much less steeply than but basically parallel to the first sharp ascent of Orr Springs Road, winding for six or seven miles at the base of the Mann Ranch property just to the north of the road, 1800 steeply rolling oak forested acres that is more fully described in the post linked to here.

As I rolled along in the quiet folds of the hills, savoring the chilly sunshine, I was able to settle my mind into that peculiar receptive state that  can come over you when everything is just right, when the sense of connection with and wonder at the world around you, in all its many parts and pieces, somehow plays a harmony in both brain and body. This state of mind is what brings the tour rider, distance runner, endurance athlete back again and again for more punishment. I’m sure that the yogi have a Sanskrit word that translates loosely as “bliss in action”.  That is the word that best describes the sensation of nearly effortless flight that brings this seeker back for more and that was how the 9 mile out and back along Masonite Road can be; no traffic, good surface, turkeys, cows, hawks and lizards all looking slightly startled at the sudden appearance of  the nearly silent cyclist, ruffling the feathers of their quiet pond.

About seven miles in, the road climbs more steeply in several sweeping switchbacks as it approaches the first locked gate at about the nine mile mark. Its easy to go around the gate with a bike, and the road meanders on for another 25 miles or so, mostly through MRLC reprod, all the way to the coast. Or, for the very adventurous there’s a little backwoods shortcut over to Running Springs Road which then connects to Orr Springs Road just a couple miles east of the Orr Hot Springs. Since it was getting dark fast, I turned around and took advantage of the relatively good surface and long nine mile downhill, a fled back through the twilight like a shadow, taking care to watch out for the bright patches on the road where, for some unknown reason, the pavement simply ceases, in a sharp line, changing to rough rock and then just as suddenly changing back to smooth asphalt fifty to on hundred feet on. It definitely will keep you on your toes, ass up off the seat in anticipation of the sharp jolts to the sitz that these rough patches can produce from too speedy a passage.

A three legged tour
At the bottom of the hill, I got back on North State Street and headed for Redwood Valley and a quaff and a few games of pool at Vic’s Place before heading back to the shop with a gratuitous 8 mile moonlight loop through the vineyards along East and West Roads.

Upper Ranch to Mongomery Woods
Anyone having specific objections, corrections, comments or warnings is encouraged to comment below of email me at webmaster@emeraldempireadventures.com

The route as ridden

Well, that was one heck of an adventure. I “rode”, that is mostly pushed my way up the logging road along Dark Gulch, going the opposite direction to the route posted above, on Saturday, August 24th, keeping faith with the planning. The first couple miles are hard uphill slogging on an engineered timber road. In this country that means that there’s a cross swale, or “water bar”, often with 2′ to 3′ high embankments on the downhill side that cross the road at an angle every couple hundred feet to drain off storm flows and prevent erosion. Those and the generally steep grade make for some pretty vigorous cranking and also prohibit the passage of any vehicle without very high suspension. It also means that the road is generally in very good condition for logging access in the future. The entry gate was posted with a sign I hadn’t seen before, saying “No plantan sy mota aqui”; “Don’t plant your pot here, we will destroy it.” The sign was somewhat reassuring, together with the untraveled road surface. The very LAST thing I want is to come across illegal activity when I’m out in hell and gone.

While struggling up the mountain, and especially around the top where I found myself pushing through some very dense brush along a very degraded road bed, I found myself asking a question that’s occurred to me a number of times “what do you call what I’m doing here?”. One obvious answer is “slightly crazy” but that’s just not specific enough. I’ve been calling it “hybrid touring” for lack of a better name, but it came to me in a flash up there in the pucker brush, that whit I’m doing, the way I ride and sometimes get off and push, occasionally through waist high brambles and poison oak up 40 degree slopes, maybe a better name is “bike hiking”. As can be seen from the other posts on this site, I spend a considerable amount of time on actual paved roads, a lot of time on gravel and “sub-standard” surfaces, a lot of time on bare dirt, add some time shoving through the pucker brush. I guess that what lights my fire is having the ability to experience and pass efficiently through many different environments, using a single kit of equipment.

Sitting in a chair typing, these questions are less pointed that when you’re out there sweating like a horse, miles from the nearest human, checking out the bear scat and picking up osprey, owl and turkey feathers. But when you’re out there, questions arise. Maybe its all the oxygen and endorphins pulsing through the bloodstream, and the absence of the constant background hum of civilization, but many questions arise; “why am I here, in this place at this moment?”, “what am I doing?”, “why am I doing it?”, etc. These are the things that sometime occupy the mind of your wilderness cyclist. Hey!, an even better name “Wilderness Cycling”. No doubt there are others out there doing this as well, but its definitely the few.

But back to the story. At the high point, marked on the map above by several map pins called “PUnk” for “Path Unknown” I found, as I mention above that the two roads visible on Google Earth are, in fact, connected by a very degraded, as in covered in dead-fall and quite overgrown, old roadbed. I had guessed that there would be at least a game trail and hoped for an actual roadbed, but the trees are too thick there for one to show in the satellite imagery. I mapped a path through and lo and behold, the route I found matched my “Path Unknown” pretty well. So the Garmin Edge 705 proves its worth one more time, giving me the confidence and sufficient background information to go boldly, knowing just how far and in which direction to go before finding the next known point. I’ve been doing seat of the pants wayfinding in the back country my whole life and am capable of navigating “old school” but there is much to be said for not spending a lot of time calculating your position and resources without a firm knowledge of the terrain between you and your objective. You can go farther that you could, safely, otherwise, knowing just how far it is to water.

Route as ridden 8/22/09

Orr Springs to Leonard Lake through the back country
So there’s how I rode/mostly pushed it. Up at the northwestern-most hairpin turn, after passing along the Path Unknown, there is a promontory with a peak, like a smooth golden nipple, perched the swelling golden breast of the mountain, just begging to become an earth sheltered home with round windows looking all directions. To the west the hills roll away toward the coast in descending folds of velvet blue and green. To the east the land goes down steeply into the Greenough Roughs which is a land of enormous boulders and soaring basalt domes at the head of Dark Gulch. No “Road A” out here. These names have stories begging to be told, and the landscape is wild, stunning and visceral.

Beginning there at the high nob, the route heads downhill at a steepening grade for nearly 2 miles and, much to my dismay, the dirt surface is terribly degraded, especially at the lower elevations, by cattle. A small herd of beautiful, sleek, shiny black Angus has the run of the country out there and, judging by the adobe hard pockmarks in the road, they love nothing more than dancing in the mud during the rainy season. The result is worse than any cobblestone lane on the Tour de France, a bone shaking, rim battering ride that is really only doable on a fully sprung mountain bike, and probably not much fun even then. Nothing quite so frustrating as walking your bike down the hill because the surface is just too rough to ride. Not fun, but rally beautiful, this stretch of country should be made known to Hollywood location scouts, it would make a stunning film backdrop.

There is a lovely little spring-fed pond about a third of the way down, past the second switchback, that would have been most welcome to a thirsty traveler (note to self; next time bring 3 litters of water for this trip). Too bad that the pond is unfenced and every cow in the neighborhood has tromped, trampled, and relieved itself, turning the water bright green and soupy, rendering it unfit for man or most any other beast than a cow. Nasty! The same is true of the spring that rises from the base of a 500 foot high basalt monolith that plugs this end of Dark Gulch. This once limpid pool is now a bovine toilet and really a damned shame. It can’t be good for the native species either. The owners of the property are aware of the problem and have harvested some of the cows in response, but, in my humble opinion, it would be a real benefit to the environment (and to the road surface and thirsty traveler) to comprehensively eliminate this destructive (and tasty and grass fed and organic) pest. I would be happy to assist in any way appropriate. Ahem…..

The road surface improves gradually as you head east toward the Upper Ranch, rising from 940′ to 1900′ at the high point and leading through more spectacular rugged country to water and a long downhill with a navigable surface from the Upper Ranch and back down into Redwood Valley. My sincere thanks to the folks at Leonard Lake Reserve for permission to pass through and enjoy this fabulous landscape.

Main Ranch Road
Hoping to ride this today, more news tomorrow.

Les indigienes

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An old farm at the crossroads

The full loop
The trickiest part of using the uploaded GPX file for navigation was actually finding the point of beginning. A close look at the “Full Loop” map above will show two false starts at the beginning of the navigation portion of the course. These cost nearly an hour and a mile or two of confusion, but once on the course, the guidance was invaluable. The rider also needs to keep in mind the necessary approximations inherent in creating a navigation route by clicking on points in Google Earth.
It is often the case, especially with rural roads, that the map’s road line deviates significantly from the underlying satellite photo image. So you pick something in between the two. In addition, when charting a course over very winding roads, you pick the midpoints of a series of curves, rather than exhaustively following the road. These and other factors result in a track that is merely an approximation of the actual ground course. So when using a “hand made” track for navigation purposes it is inevitably the case that your ground truth will vary from the navigation file and it is these variations that can throw you off course without careful attention. At these points, you have to fall back on non-technical way-finding means, like checking the road surfaces for patterns of usage (which of these forks is the main road?) and the like.
In sum then, the GPS technology is great to have and could even be a lifesaver, but inevitably, traditional way-finding skills will come into play when the device provides ambiguous information, when you exceed the 15 hour battery life or when someone (not me surely) loses or breaks the device out in the back country (or down in the ‘hood). It would be unwise and unsafe to become overly dependent on a fragile piece of technology when your life could be at stake. On the other hand, as a means of communication, to document field conditions, it a real gem.
The ride itself was really top-notch, with over 3k vertical feet of ascent, most of it between the 8 and 13 mile points, all on loose dusty gravel at grades between 8% and 20%. I am not ashamed to say that at a couple points I got off and pushed. The combination of a narrow street tire up front and very worn cleats caused me to come out of the pedals on some very steep pitches, and there’s just no getting back on till you come to a flatter spot. Did I mention its flippin’ STEEP too?
But the back country is really beautiful, spotted with oak trees and offering lovely views into redwood clothed valleys. This is Greenfield Ranch country and the folks there are very protective of their privacy and the quality of the environment. I did not see even one piece of rubbish lying beside the road. I must say that I also saw only one Private Road, No Trespassing, sign along the course of Main Ranch Road (as opposed to those indicating adjoining properties) indicating that one could not pass along the road. The signs I did see along the road, as shown in the photos, indicate that the road is “Privately Maintained” and that one is entering at one’s own risk. From my point of view, its a much more entertaining and safer route to Orr Hot Springs than taking the paved roads, and shorter too.
The big HOWEVER is, however, that in conversation with a local resident along the road, and since, with a sometime visitor to the area, my trespass is very much unwelcome. You should know without being told that simply passing over the road is BAD, the transgression of taboo which, if I had better sense I’d not have transgressed in the first place. It’s also been said that my action in passing through will cause the erection of signs that actually SAY “Private Road”, or even electronic gates. I stand accursed, for riding the road that must not be ridden, mea culpa. NO ONE must ever do this again!!
And, since no one of the uninvited may ever go there again, please enjoy the geo-tagged gallery and know that which is forbidden, however distantly.