Mmmmmm………..Matsutake!!!!
Tricholoma Matsutake or Japanese Pine Mushroom	California "Matsutake"; Tricholoma magnivelare ...or not?
The picture at left shows a typical sample of the “true ” Tricholoma Matsutake as distinct from our local pacific northwest variety, referred to below as Tricholoma magnivelare even though the western “Matsutake” have been shown through genetic studies to be a distinct population and so are misnamed as either Matsutake or Magnivelare. Visually, as opposed to the “true” strain native to Asia, North Africa, Europe and northeastern North America, the pacific northwest variety (shown at right) is initially quite pale versus the brown of the Asian variety. But, academic debates aside, when it comes to mushroom hunting, its all about field identification, and odor is one of the strongest indicators, specifically a strong, distinctive spicy funk, like Ethiopian food and dirty laundry, its been said. Despite the off-putting description, this is one of the most highly prized mushrooms in Japan and elsewhere, with a culinary stature approaching that of the more familiar European truffle tuber melanosporum, and for much the same reason as musk is the base note of many fine perfumes, the strong distinctive scent, and in this case, flavor blend almost magically with the sharper notes of ginger, onion and miso traditionally used in Japanese preparations, and I can highly recommended it as a superior compliment to wild game.
The American Matsutake: Tricholoma magnivelare by Michael Kuo The American matsutake grows primarily under conifers in northern and montane North America. When young it is white, but it soon begins to develop brownish discolorations. It features a prominent partial veil which covers the young gills and later forms a sheathlike covering on the lower stem, with the upper edge flaring outward to form a ring. The gills are crowded and attached to the stem, sometimes by a notch, but do not run down it. The spore print is white. The odor of the matsutake is its most distinctive–and hard to characterize–feature. “Spicy but a little bit foul” is what comes to my mind, though I like “a provocative compromise between ‘red hots’ and dirty socks” (Arora, 1986, p. 191). The matsutake taste is as distinctive as the odor: “an incredible and complex flavor you won’t ever forget–even though you won’t be able to adequately describe it to anyone” (Volk, 2000). Description: Ecology: Mycorrhizal, primarily with conifers (jack pine in northeastern North America; lodgepole pine in the Rocky Mountains; Pinus teocote and other pines in Mexico’s high-elevation pine-oak forests; and pines and other conifers Pacific Northwest and California) but also found in tanoak and madrone forests on the West Coast; growing scattered or gregariously; northern and montane North America; summer, fall, and (in warmer climates) winter. Cap: 5-20 cm; convex becoming broadly convex or nearly flat; dry or a little sticky; white at first; soon with brownish discolorations and pressed-down fibers; the margin rolled under when young. Gills: Attached to the stem, sometimes by means of a notch; crowded; white, developing brown or reddish brown stains and spots with age. Stem: 4-15 cm long; up to 5 cm thick; more or less equal, or with a slightly tapered base (but not with a long, rooting base); white above the ring, colored like the cap below; partial veil white and thick, collapsing to form a sheath around the lower stem and a prominent flaring ring at the top edge of the sheath. Flesh: White; firm; not changing on exposure. Odor and Taste: Taste spicy; odor fragrant and distinctive (see comments above). Spore Print: White. I’ve collected these in northwest Oregon and the literature indicates the only important difference between here in northwest California and there is in terms of habitat with tanoak and madrone in addition to the conifer zones it is found in further north. We have reliable reports of abundant Matsutake in our mapped sites up at Leonard Lake Reserve, where time will tell the truth of this spot’s reputation as a plentiful producer. And, technicalities aside Matsutake is considered ” edible and choice”, music to a mushroom hunters ears. While there are several species that closely resemble it ,specifically” Tricholoma caligatum (with a browner cap, hardwood habitat, and mild or mealy odor), Catathelasma imperiale (with gills that run down the stem, a double ring, and a tapering stem that roots deeply in the soil), and  Russula brevipes (too many differences to list) “none are toxic, and the identifying characteristics are sufficiently unambiguous that a careful picker, with an experienced guide for quality assurance there is virtually no danger of poisoning. Allergic reactions are a different matter, and in some people are made worse by drinking alcohol and eating new species of wild mushrooms. Anyone with food sensitivities needs to be their own best friend when it comes to sampling, or not sampling new foods. Book your own California wild mushroom foray

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With prices as high as $90 per kilo in Japan for imported northwest Matsutake, it is highly sought after by commercial pickers and can go for as much as $25/pound to the brokers, depending on demand. For the mycophage, they are an excellent compliment to the woodsy flavor of the Chanterelles that grow nearby and an their meaty texture and spicy undertones go well with game and a full-bodied red wine. They are wily and shy little devils, often barely poking through the leaf litter, and spotting them is often a matter of pawing through the duff like a caribou pawing through the snow for moss. But a heaping platter of fresh Matsutake buttons sauteed in butter and deglazed with red wine and thyme is a treat well worth the effort. On about.com they say Matsutake Mushrooms; Japanese Autumn Delicacy By Setsuko Yoshizuka, About.com Matsutake Mushrooms Photo (c) Setsuko Yoshizuka Many kinds of edible mushrooms grow in Japan. Matsutake mushrooms are said to be the king of all because of the great aroma and flavor. Matsutake grow in red pine forests in the autumn, and theyare specialautumn delicacy in Japan. Fresh matsutake harvested in Japan are very pricey, so imported matsutake are commonly purchased. Matsutake mushrooms are cooked in various ways: steamed, grilled, fried, and more. Matsutake in sukiyakitempura are very popular. Also, matsutake rice and dobin mushi (steamed in a teapot), and soup are also delicious dishes. and Matsutake Recipes Matsutake Gohan Recipe – seasoned rice with matsutake mushrooms. Matsutake Dobinmushi Recipe – matsutake mushrooms steamed in a Japanese tea pot Matsutake Recipe William Rubel Author and Cook Specializing in Traditional Cooking This recipe for matsutake soup from the Kunming Hotel, Kunming, China, demonstrates how one can, as a cook, step back and let the mushroom speak for itself. There are mushrooms that need us, the cook, to exert ourselves on their behalf — but many of the greatest mushrooms are best handled the least and this is certainly true of the great pine mushroom (Tricholoma matsuke). In Yunnan the mushroom is called sunron. It combines a rare package of a sweet odor, delicate taste, crisp texture, and beautiful shape. No oil is used in this soup — and it is the opinion of the Kunming Hotel chefs that oil must never be used with matsutake because, in their opinion, oil smothers the pine flavor of the mushroom. Thus, at the heart of this recipe is an approach to the matstuake that says – let the mushroom reveal itself through its own breath. The stock for this soup is lightly salted water in which the mushroom is boiled and at the last minute joined by cilantro. A related matsutake—Tricholoma magnivelare — grows in North America. Its cap is browner (NB not true, see Hugh Smith photo above) than Tricholma matsutake, but it is also a fine mushroom. Ingredients: Water, salt, matsutake mushrooms, thinly sliced, and cilantro, coarsely shopped. For each portion of soup include a moderate handful of mushrooms and a small handful of cilantro. Instructions Make a stock of lightly salted water by adding a little salt, tasting, adding a little more, tasting until you are pleased with the taste. Then add a little white pepper. Add thinly sliced matsutake and bring to a rolling boil. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes at a full boil. Add rough chopped cilantro. As soon as the cilantro wilts remove from the heat and serve. And finally, an excerpt for an excellent article with several recipies in the Seattle PI Fantastic Forage: Wild matsutake mushrooms By HSIAO-CHING CHOU SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER FOOD WRITER Wild matsutakes deliver the season of chestnuts and gingko, persimmons and the new rice crop. The pine (matsu) mushroom (take), for the Japanese, inspires excitement for summer’s wane into fall, and triggers thoughts of savoring its pungent flavor. It is said that one cooks the matsutake until one can eat the aroma. In that regard, the matsutake resembles the truffle, which lends its perfume to any preparation it encounters. A broth with several slices of a pine mushroom would be served in a lidded bowl or pot, for example, so that the scent of earthy pine with a tinge of cinnamon swirls within the container until it is finally released. Mike Urban / P-I Takemi Sugiyama collects Matsutaki mushrooms in the Cascades. The season for matsutakes in the Northwest has begun and there has been a notable abundance of these mushrooms this year. Local foragers say they have never seen such a profusion, which has caused behavior so rarely exhibited: Hunters, like zucchini growers, are enthusiastically sharing their bounty instead of hoarding it. At local farmers markets, professional foragers have stacks of bins brimming with matsutakes, which are selling for about $8 to $14 per pound. Restaurants are featuring the mushroom sauteed, steamed, simmered, batter-fried, grilled. Shiro’s sushi bar presents matsutakes in chawan mushi (steamed egg custard), dobin mushi (broth), tempura and sushi. “These are real expensive in Japan,” says owner Shiro Kashiba, with reverence in his voice. “We’re real lucky here.” Last week, Union restaurant served seared venison medallions with sliced matsutake in red wine with shallots. Oceanaire is shaving matsutakes over salads. Matsutakes are meaty like porcinis and portobellos. The large ones have steaklike caps and thick stems. The flavor of the bigger ones is intense and can overwhelm preparations, such as stir-fries or soups. So use the mushroom sparingly unless the intensity is pleasing to you. read the rest of this article for more info and several recipies As with most popular wild mushrooms, careful attention to the details of a few field identification characteristics; habitat, shape, color, texture and in this case, most distinctively, odor will guard against nearly all misidentification. The other side of the coin is to be familiar with the local species similar enough in appearance to your target species to be confused with it, be familiar with the local deadly species, in particular, the Amanitas (being a principal cause of poisonings locally), know the characteristics to be avoided, and, above all, if you’re not 100% sure of your identification don’t put it in your basket! Just like pilots, there are old mushroom pickers and bold mushroom pickers, but, there are no old, bold ones. On the other hand, flying, like mushroom picking, cycling, and walking out your front door  all are inherently dangerous. Those who have no tolerance for risk should, and will stay home and eat canned mushrooms, if any. So the question then is not “Matsutake or not-so-take”, but “To Matsutake or Not-to-Take”. Book your own California wild mushroom foray

Emerald Empire Adventures is excited to announce the
1st annual Mushrooms and Mountain Bikes Adventures

at Leonard Lake Reserve for the fall season of 2009, a Winter Weekend Special Adventure

$165/person, all inclusive; food, lodging, guides and transportation from Redwood Valley included.

Saturday and Sunday throughout the season (October -??? depending on the rains)

Mushroom Pickers are TOUGH; we hunt with just a knife and a paintbrush!

The creek crossing very rarely rains out and becomes impassible so, as every mushroom picker knows, the forest can be wet and the trails muddy, be prepared!Email treasures@emeraldempireadventures.com, comment below or call us at 707-367-3299 or book on-line to reserve your spot now. We can accommodate groups of from five to forty and there’s a ten percent discount for groups of ten or more. Check us out on the web at http://www.emeraldempireadventures.com/

We depart Base Camp at 9001 C North State Street in Redwood Valery and after a 1o mile climb up to Leaonard Lake (for those who wish), we’ll take an hour to settle you into your guest house, whichever of the five classic craftsman style, fully equipped units best fits the group. We’ll have a light lunch and dinner will be started after we go out on our first picking expedition into the old growth redwood on pastures of plenty (Mushroom Gods willing), where no one has picked in man a year, if ever.After a long afternoon tramping the hills and picking, we will return to the lake houses with your bounty where our chef will incorporate it into dinner and pair it all with some carefully chosen local vintages for your dining pleasure. It will all be ready after you’ve changed out of those soggy togs, and we can swap stories around the fire after the meal, till the sandman calls you away.You’ll wake up Sunday morning to the smell of coffee and a hearty country style breakfast to warm you up for the Leonard Lake mountain bike loop, 3.5 miles of up and down (see map and profile below), ’round the lake through more untouched picking grounds than you can shake a mushroom brush at. There will be a vehicle for those who’d rather not ride, those 3 and half miles could easily take 6 hours to pick through and the truck makes it easy to pick for your freezer of dehydrator and not have to lug the whole booty bag back to the cabin! A picnic lunch will be served along the way and warming beverages will be provided.At the end of the day, we’ll load up you and your gear in our bus and bring you back to you car, booty and all. The true hard-core cyclists can ride back down that 10 mile hill they climbed on Saturday, and accommodations will be made for those who don’t want to ride at all.

Email treasures@emeraldempireadventures.com, comment below or call us at 707-367-3299 or book on-line to reserve your spot now. We can accommodate groups of from five to forty and there’s a ten percent discount for groups of ten or more.

Redwood Valley to Leonard Lake, showing teh lake loop

OK, there’s a little glitch on the elevation profile, there really is no 800′ cliff in the road, my GPS unit was “improperly oriented” (i.e. upside down) until I corrected the issue there at the top of the cliff. The main point of interest in the profile above is that 3.56 mile set of bumps at the high point. That’s the Lake Loop route that those willing will ride on Sunday. The views are spectacular, the forest is dark deep and ancient, the road is vehicle width but very steep and extra rough in places, and the mushrooms? There’s only one way to find out.

Emerald Empire Adventures will get you there, keep you from getting lost, show you where to pick and what not to pick. We will cook dinner, breakfast and lunch and show you how to pick, cook, eat, and store the mushrooms. You will bring your sense of adventure and clothing suitable for a temperate rain forest in the fall, i.e.; waterproof boots, rain pants and waterproof jacket, at least 3 changes of inner layers. This is wet work, but ask any mushroom picker, well worth it. We do have some of these items and can provide backups or spares for a limited number of people, but best to bring your own. For those who’ve never picked and don’t have their own equipment, fear not. All you need is a collecting “basket” a small knife and a 2″ nylon paing brussh. Tape the paintbrush handle to the knife handle, et voila, you are a mushroom picker. Why the brush? Because the more moss, bracken and soil you leave in the forest, the less you get in your sink. The knife is  for cutting the stalks, much better and cleaner than pulling or tearing.

Yours truly, your guide, has been picking, eating and not dying from wild mushrooms since the age of four. I’ll befuddle you with learned discourse and arcane mushroom lore, and, if you pay attention, not a single poisonous or even bad-tasting sample will go in your basket, and NONE will pass muster at cleaning time. I use the word “basket ” loosely, but in general I’m referring any more or less rigid-sided container with a capacity of at least one gallon and some ventilation (like holes) for collecting specimens (AKA booty). Mushrooms are relatively fragile beings and do not like the way a bag tends to squash and macerate them while being carried about through the brush. And when the proper stars align, its not unusual to bring out 20-50 pounds of chanterelles per person. They are very easily preserved by dehydration, freezing, canning or pickling and are a wonderful flavoring agent for stew, gravy, casseroles, rice etc. etc. Your mushroom questions will be answered, and I’ve got the book for reference. There is an abundance of edible species here, and a few not so edible (with the liver transplant!), and discrimination is the key, but its pretty simple, really, and I’ve successfully taught children as young as 4 how to tell the good from the bad, so even the timid among us can do this.

This is a great opportunity to bring out the kids for an educational and interesting adventure in an old growth redwood forest, one of the very few remaining intact ecosystems abutting Redwood Valley, and just ten miles off Hwy 101.

Email treasures@emeraldempireadventures.com, comment below or call us at 707-367-3299 or book on-line to reserve your spot now. We can accommodate groups of from five to forty and there’s a ten percent discount for groups of ten or more. Special menu arrangements are available for those with restricted diets.

Chanterelle mushrooms underfoot

Well, winter is coming to NorCal, and with winter comes the rains, and with the rains come the mushrooms; chanterelles, matsutake, oyster, etc., etc. I’ve been picking mushrooms since, as we say in Hawaii, “small kid time” and those many hours spent slogging through damp fern and bracken are fond memories, all the more so those many baskets, buckets and bags dragged up out of the woods of northwest Oregon, full to overflowing with a huge variety of delicious species, but mostly filled with glowing orange-golden Chenterelleses, preciousss, the King of wild mushrooms, we wants them precioussssss.

Riding on top of the normal winter season, this year, according to Stormsurf.com we have a

Weak-Moderate El Nino Developing
Solid Warm Pattern in-Play Over the Equatorial East Pacific

Overview: Early 2008 saw a marginal El Nino try to take control of the tropical Pacific from March into July, fueled by several active phases of Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO).  The MJO faltered and La Nina returned, cutting the legs off the developing warm pattern. But the MJO was strong enough for long enough to cause anomalously warm warm to appear off Central America and change the atmosphere creating momentum that fueled the development of a decent Fall storm pattern, holding on into late November 2008.  But right when things were starting to get in a groove, the upper level (jetstream) winds that were driving the machine and fueled by the warm waters off Central America during the summer months, disintegrated.  A split jetstream flow took over totally shutting down the storm pattern.  The remainder of the Winter and Spring 2008/2009 season were completely placid.

With that in mind, we moved into the Spring of 2009 seeing a similar pattern. That is, the MJO came-on strong again with a solid series of consecutive Active Phases and a marked increase in westerly wind anomalies in the West Pacific resulting in anomalously warm subsurface waters tracking east towards Central America (Kelvin Waves). As the Kelvin Waves erupted along the Central American coast, warm surface waters began to appear, much like the year previous, but with more vigor. It is with that background scenario that we look to the coming Fall and Winter of 2009/2010 with higher expectations and the hope for real surf for the first time in over a decade for Hawaii, Canada and the US West Coast.  The paragraphs below describe the state of various indicators used to assess long-term global weather conditions (be it either El Nino or La Nina), followed by a revised set of criteria for assessing it’s impact on surf generation potential for the future.

read the rest here

Al this means we can expect more rain than usual and more rain, up to a point, means more mushrooms. Emerald Empire Adventures is currently developing exclusive two and three day day guided mushroom picking at the secluded private reserve at Leonard Lake. This your chance to learn how to pick, what to pick and most importantly, what not to pick. You’ll spend the night at one of the five lovely cottages overlooking the largest natural lake in Mendocino County and you won’t be running into any territorial individuals since this is entirely within the 4400 acre private reserve. In the evening we’ll clean, process and prepare the day’s take, pair the dishes with selected local vintages and tell war stories around the fireplace. Check back soon for prices and availability. the Images below are taken along the way to Leonard Lake on Reeves Canyon Road.